The chef at Osteria di San Cesario, Anna Dente, is known as the Queen of Matriciana. She not only makes the pasta and sauce herself, she draws on her family's four decades in the butchering business to make her own guanciale (cured hog jowl)—though the sauce is also fantastic made with pancetta. More Great Pastas Great Fresh Pasta Recipes
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The spicy tomato sauce can be refrigerated overnight. Bring it just to a simmer before adding the pasta and finishing the dish.
Guanciale (pronounced gwan-CHAH-leh), or salted, air-cured pork jowls, comes from the Italian word meaning "cheek." If using pancetta in place of the guanciale called for in this recipe, cook it in 2 tablespoons of olive oil in Step 1 and season the finished sauce with salt.
Even with the tomatoes and porky guanciale, Lazians would still pair this dish with a white wine. Try a rich version from the Frascati region.