Pasta all'Amatriciana

In a large skillet, combine the guanciale, chile and bay leaf and cook over moderately low heat until the fat has rendered and the guanciale is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer over moderate heat until it has reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices and simmer over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened, about 30 minutes. Discard the bay leaf.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook over high heat until just barely tender. Drain the pasta and stir it into the sauce. Cook the pasta over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 2 minutes. Season with pepper. Spoon the pasta into shallow bowls, generously sprinkle with the grated Pecorino Romano and serve, passing more Pecorino cheese at the table.

Guanciale (pronounced gwan-CHAH-leh), or salted, air-cured pork jowls, comes from the Italian word meaning "cheek." If using pancetta in place of the guanciale called for in this recipe, cook it in 2 tablespoons of olive oil in Step 1 and season the finished sauce with salt.