Meat + Poultry Pappardelle with Milk-Roasted Baby Goat Ragù 4.0 (443) 2 Reviews This is a signature dish at Komi, where Johnny Monis slowly roasts the baby goat in milk until it's meltingly tender, then simmers it in tomato sauce before spooning it over fresh, eggy pappardelle noodles. The key to the dish is giving all of the elements enough time to come together: "We never serve our ragù the same day we make it," Monis says. "When the ragù is allowed to cool overnight, the flavor and texture completely change." More Fresh Pasta Recipes By Johnny Monis Johnny Monis Why he won Because in a tiny 400-square-foot kitchen, he makes exceptional Greek-inspired food that’s both creative and based on centuries-old traditions. Born Arlington, VA; 1979. Experience McCrady’s, Charleston, SC. How long he lasted as a pre-med major Three years, at James Madison University in Harrisonburg, VA. “I realized I would eventually go to cooking school.” How long he lasted at cooking school One year at Johnson & Wales University in Charleston. “I was learning so much more at McCrady’s that I dropped out.” First kitchen job Working at his parents’ Mediterranean restaurant, La Casa, in Alexandria, VA. “I was excited to do whatever I could to help out. I remember standing on a milk crate because I wasn’t tall enough to reach the sink to wash dishes.” His age when he opened Komi 24. How Komi got its name “I used to go to the Greek island of Chios every summer. My parents were born there; my grandmother still lives there. She and my grandfather grew their own vegetables; they made their own olive oil and goat cheese. Komi is the name of a beach on that island.” Career turning point “I’d love to say there was one, but I knew it all along. I’ve never had a job outside of the kitchen. Ever.” Pet peeve “I very much dislike when people rip into the plastic wrap covering something—when they make a hole and dig in. It takes seconds to just unwrap something properly. I can’t tell you why, but it has always bothered me. Improper use of plastic wrap, that’s what I call it.” What keeps him going “I look forward to coming into work every day. I have such a small, close staff. Most nights, it’s just me and three or four other people. I’m very much a part of this place, and I love it.” Ingredient obsession “We’re using a lot of goat. We go through eight to 10 whole goats a week, and we only have 12 tables. I make them into ragus, I spit-roast them, I cure them to make a kind of prosciutto. The meat is so useful, and it’s largely overlooked in this part of the world.” Favorite childhood dish The rabbit stew with pearl onions that his grandmother made. “I can’t remember a time when she didn’t have that dish waiting for us when we landed at Chios.” Favorite kitchen tool A sharp, well-maintained knife. “I love my Misono UX10 and my Shun.” Fantasy splurge Northern Spain. “My girlfriend and I have the trip planned. It has fabulous restaurants and beautiful beaches—the two most important things for me. It’s really hard to find both in a destination.” Favorite cheap eat The pizza at his parents’ restaurant. “I love it—right out of the oven, cold or reheated. And I’ve never had to pay for a slice.” Favorite guilty pleasure Anything salty and crunchy. “Fritos and corn nuts are my favorites.” Food trend he wishes would go away Food as science, for novelty’s sake. “Innovation is great, as long as one maintains respect for tradition, quality ingredients and seasonality.” Favorite customer “Anyone who comes in and just asks us to cook for them. That’s a huge compliment.” Food & Wine's Editorial Guidelines Updated on May 23, 2017 Print Rate It Share Share Tweet Pin Email Photo: © April Williams Active Time: 1 hrs Total Time: 3 hrs 30 mins Yield: 4 Ingredients 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 1/2 pounds baby goat shoulder on the bone (see Note) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup whole milk 2 thyme sprigs 1 bay leaf 1/2 small cinnamon stick 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 cups canned peeled Italian tomatoes, crushed 1 1/4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth Homemade Pappardelle Noodles (See Note) Freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese, for serving Directions Preheat the oven to 300°. In a medium enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season the goat with salt and pepper and add it to the casserole. Cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides, about 15 minutes. Spoon off the excess fat in the casserole. Add the milk, thyme, bay leaf and cinnamon stick to the casserole and bring to a boil. Cover with foil and a lid and transfer to the oven. Braise for about 1 hour 40 minutes, turning the meat occasionally and spooning the cooking liquid over it from time to time. The meat is done when it's tender enough to pull off the bone. Remove the meat from the casserole and let cool. Pour the pan juices into a heatproof glass measuring cup. There should be about a 1/2 cup. Discard the thyme sprigs, bay leaf and cinnamon stick. Pull the meat from the bones and cut it into 1/2-inch pieces. Reserve the large bones. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the casserole along with the tomato paste and cook over moderate heat until sizzling, about 2 minutes. Stir in the reserved pan juices. Add the tomatoes and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Return the meat and bones to the casserole and simmer over very low heat until the sauce is thick and reduced to about 3 1/2 cups, about 1 hour; discard the bones. Refrigerate the goat ragù overnight. The next day, rewarm the ragù in the casserole. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pappardelle and cook until al dente, about 3 minutes. Drain and add the pasta to the ragù; toss well. Serve the pasta in shallow bowls, passing the cheese on the side. Make Ahead The baby goat ragù can be refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 1 month. Notes Get the Homemade Pappardelle Noodle Recipe here. Look for goat shoulder (preferably from a baby goat) at halal meat markets or order it from your butcher. Suggested Pairing The brilliance of this Greek-inspired dish is that the flavors blend into a complex, delicious whole—neither the goat nor the tomato nor the spices dominate. A great Xinomavro (a native Greek variety), would be a delicious match for this pappardelle. 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