Preheat the oven to 500° or light a grill. In a large pot, bring the wine to a boil. Add the mussels, cover and cook over high heat until they open, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mussels to a bowl; discard any that do not open. Strain the cooking liquid into a small bowl.
Remove the mussels from their shells. Unroll the pancetta slices and cut them into forty 3-inch-long strips. Arrange the strips on a work surface. Place a basil leaf at the base of each strip, top with a mussel and roll up. Thread the mussels onto skewers.
Brush the skewers with some of the mussel cooking liquid. Roast the mussels in a cast-iron skillet in the upper third of the oven, or grill over high heat, turning once, until lightly charred and crisp, about 2 minutes. Brush the cooked mussels with the cooking liquid a second time and serve right away.
At the clay oven party in Napa, guests enjoyed these smoky mussels with glasses of crisp Chardonnay.
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