How to Make It
In a large, deep skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring, until golden; using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the chard stems, sliced shallots and garlic and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until crisp-tender, 4 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, 3 minutes. Add the chard leaves in handfuls, letting each batch wilt slightly before adding more. Add the water, cover and braise over moderately low heat until the chard is tender, 5 minutes. Stir in the bacon, season with salt and pepper; keep warm.
In a small skillet, cook the butter and pine nuts over moderately high heat, stirring, until the milk solids are golden, 5 minutes. Stir in the minced shallot and thyme and cook for 30 seconds. Whisk in the lemon zest and juice, then season with salt and pepper; keep warm.
Season the fish with salt and pepper. In a nonstick skillet, heat the oil. Add the fish and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until golden and just white throughout, 6 minutes. Transfer the chard to plates and set the fish on top. Spoon the brown butter dressing over the fish and serve.