Pad Thai

In a large bowl, cover the rice vermicelli with cold water and let soak until pliable, about 20 minutes. Drain the vermicelli.

In a medium bowl, cover all the chiles with boiling water. Let soak until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain and coarsely chop the chiles.

In a mortar or mini-processor, grind the softened chiles, shallot and sugar to a paste. Work in the fish sauce, tamarind liquid and lime juice. Set the chile paste aside.

In a wok or medium saucepan, heat 2 cups of the vegetable oil until shimmering. Add the tofu and deep-fry over moderately high heat until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Add the peanuts to the oil and deep-fry until golden brown, about 2 minutes; drain on paper towels. Fry the dried shrimp until crisp, about 1 minute, then drain on paper towels. Reserve the oil for future frying or discard it.

Heat the wok over moderately high heat. When it is very hot, after about 2 minutes, add 1/2 tablespoon of the remaining oil and heat until shimmering. Season the eggs with salt and lightly stir-fry until they start to set. Shape the eggs into an 8-inch round, flatten slightly, then turn over and cook until firm, about 10 more seconds. Transfer the egg cake to a work surface and cut it into long 1-inch-wide strips.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in the wok over moderately high heat until almost smoking. Add the chile paste and stir-fry until fragrant, about 4 minutes. Add the fresh shrimp and stir-fry until bright pink, about 3 minutes. Add 1/3 cup of water and the soaked rice vermicelli and stir fry until tender, about 3 more minutes. Add more water if necessary to keep the noodles moist. Add the egg strips and toss again. Transfer the noodles to a platter, garnish with the fried tofu, peanuts, dried shrimp and bean sprouts and serve with lime wedges.