Mid- to late winter is the time for smelts. Fishermen set up smelt shacks on frozen lakes and streams and dangle their lines through holes in the ice. These small fish—served bones, head and all—have a wonderfully delicate, clean flavor that is often compared to violets or even cucumbers. Fast Hors d'Oeuvres
Like Malbec, Sémillon was once used primarily as a blending grape in France, but today has a following of its own in Australia for its zingy, lemony freshness. For these delicate little roasted fish, pour a fragrant or herbal variety.