Morel, Shiitake and Yellowfoot Mushroom Ragout with Okra, Ramps and Rosemary

In a large pot, bring the white mushrooms and the 4 1/2 cups water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer 45 minutes. Strain the broth into a medium saucepan, press the mushrooms to get all the juice and then discard the mushrooms. Add the rosemary and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt to the mushroom broth. Bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Discard the sprigs of fresh rosemary or strain out the dried rosemary. Continue boiling until the broth measures 1 1/2 cups. Add 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper.

Heat the oven to 400°. Lightly oil a roasting pan. Put the morel, shiitake and yellowfoot mushrooms in the pan. Drizzle with the oil and the remaining 2 tablespoons water. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper. Cover with aluminum foil and cook in the oven for 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, steam or boil the carrots until just done, about 6 minutes. Cut lengthwise into halves. Steam or boil the okra until just done, about 5 minutes. Cut each pod diagonally into four pieces.

In a large frying pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. Add the ramps and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the ramps are tender, about 5 minutes.

Put 2 tablespoons of the reserved mushroom broth in a small pot and add the enoki mushrooms. Cover and bring the broth to a boil over moderately high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook the mushrooms for 1 minute.

In a large frying pan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter over moderately low heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the wild mushrooms with any juice that has accumulated, the carrots, okra and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until warmed through.

To serve, reheat the remaining broth. Divide the mushroom mixture among six plates. Top with the ramps and then the enoki mushrooms. Ladle the broth over and around the mushrooms and sprinkle with the mixed herbs.

Chef's Tip

Morels hold a lot of sand and grit. To clean them easily, soak the mushrooms in lukewarm water for five minutes. Remove them with a strainer, leaving the sand at the bottom. Repeat with fresh water to be sure they're clean.