Malaysian Glazed Chicken Wings

In a small skillet, toast the chiles, coriander seeds, fennel seeds and cumin seeds over moderate heat until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and grind to a fine powder. Transfer the ground spices to a medium bowl and whisk in the sugar, molasses, fish sauce, soy sauces, garlic and ginger. Divide the wings among 2 or 3 resealable plastic bags and pour in the marinade. Refrigerate for 4 hours, turning occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 425°. Remove the wings from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels; reserve the marinade. Arrange the wings on 2 wire racks set over a foil-covered baking sheet. Roast for about 40 minutes, or until well browned and cooked through.

Meanwhile, strain the marinade into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook over moderately high heat until thick and sticky, about 20 minutes. Transfer the marinade to a large bowl. When the wings are done, add them to the bowl and toss to coat with the sauce. Pile on plates and serve immediately.