This light but intensely oystery soup was inspired by a recipe from Joanne Hendricks, the proprietor of the eponymous vintage-cookbook store in New York City. Salsify is a root vegetable shaped like a skinny parsnip; it has blackish skin with white flesh and tastes a little like artichoke hearts. If you have trouble finding it (in fact, Mary Ellen Carroll and Donna Wingate had to ask architect Charles Renfro to bring some to Boston from New York), you can substitute Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes) or, as a last resort, the pedestrian potato. More Chowder Recipes
The recipe can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight. Reheat gently before proceeding.
In recent years, ambitious producers have worked to update the image of Soave, the classic white wine of Italy's Veneto, creating complex whites with nut and mineral notes, ideal for this briny chowder.