At Bellegarde Bakery in New Orleans, baker Graison Gill is part of a generation of renegade bakers who are eschewing industrially ground white flour in favor of grinding their own flours from crops like red Ruby Lee wheat and heirloom corn. “White flour is a corpse,” says Gill. “It’s a dead, shelf-stable product. Freshly stone-milled flour is a living ingredient, full of flavor, texture, aroma, nutrition, and nuance.” Buy Bellegarde Bakery’s stone-ground flour online at bellegardebakery.com. Lemon filling highlights the nuttiness of buckwheat flour in these shortbread cookie sandwiches from Nina Compton. Substituting store-bought buckwheat flour will yield a less nutty cookie. Be sure to store either flour in the freezer.