How to Make It
Place the chicken pieces in a large bowl, add the lemon juice, and turn the chicken to expose all surfaces to the juice. Add the salt and rub it onto the chicken pieces. If you have time, refrigerate, covered, for an hour or two to marinate.
About an hour before you want to serve the chicken, place a wide heavy skillet over medium heat. Add oil to a depth of 1⁄4 inch. Once the oil is hot, lift the chicken pieces out of the marinade (reserve the marinade) and carefully slide them into the oil. (If your pan is too small to hold the chicken comfortably, use two pans or cook in batches, adding a little more oil if necessary.) Fry, turning the pieces from time to time, until the chicken is well touched with gold, about 15 minutes.
Lift the chicken pieces out of the oil and transfer to a large pot. Add the onions, the reserved marinade, and water to barely cover. Bring to a boil and toss in the turmeric and cumin, then lower the heat and simmer gently for 45 minutes or so, until the chicken is cooked through. (If you taste the broth early in the cooking, you will find the cumin too strong, but once it has finished simmering, the flavors come together.) Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Serve the chicken in its broth, topped with a sprinkling of chopped coriander and/or scallions. Set out plenty of flatbreads, the rice, and the herb plate.
Rice, flatbreads and fresh herbs.