Chef John Gorham serves these savory pancakes with soy sauce and kimchi pickling liquid on the side for dipping. Slideshow: Korean Recipes
In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the shrimp until almost white throughout, 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to a bowl of ice water. Add the calamari to the saucepan and cook until white, 30 seconds; drain and transfer to the ice water. Drain the seafood and pat dry; cut the shrimp into 1/2-inch pieces.
In a bowl, whisk the flour with the salt, baking powder and baking soda. Add the milk and eggs; whisk until smooth. Fold in the seafood.
In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon each of the canola and sesame oils. For each flapjack, ladle 1/4 cup of the batter into the skillet, leaving space between them. Scatter some kimchi on top, pressing gently, and cook over moderate heat until bubbles start to appear on the surface and the edges are golden, about 3 minutes. Flip the flapjacks, add another tablespoon of canola oil to the skillet and cook until golden and crisp on the bottom, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining batter.
Spritzy, citrusy Portuguese Vinho Verde.