Indian Panfried Cauliflower

Put a large sauté pan or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ghee, and when it is hot, add the cauliflower. Stir occasionally as the cauliflower begins to color, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and continue stirring until the cauliflower is half-cooked, about 5 minutes; lower the heat if necessary to keep it from browning too quickly.

Tilt the pan to expose a small pool of hot ghee and add the cumin, mustard seeds, turmeric, and kaffir lime leaves, if you have them. When they begin to sizzle in the oil, add the ginger, garlic, and chiles, stir well, and then add the peas, if using, along with a sprinkle of salt. Cover to let the cauliflower (and peas) steam until tender, 3 to 4 minutes.

Transfer the cauliflower to a serving bowl, sprinkle with the slivered scallions and cilantro, and serve.