How to Make It
Set a large fine sieve over a large pot. In a separate large stockpot, combine the fish bones, ice cubes, and 5 quarts of water, and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, skimming. Add the celery, fennel, leek, ginger, lemon zest, and parsley, and cook over low heat for 2 hours. Strain the broth into the prepared pot; discard the solids.
Wipe out the stockpot. Add 1/4 cup of the oil, the onions, crab shells, and lemongrass, and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the wine, and cook, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom, until almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add the broth, bring to a simmer, and cook over moderately low heat for 1 hour. Wipe out the large pot, and set a large fine sieve on top. Strain the broth; discard the solids. Add the black vinegar, and season with salt and white pepper.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cover the lily buds with boiling water and let stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain, and discard the tough tips.
In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add all of the mushrooms, and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Spoon the mushrooms, lily bulbs, tofu, cilantro, nasturtium petals, and crabmeat into 4 bowls. Ladle in the broth, and serve with extra black vinegar.