Preheat the oven to 400°. In a small bowl, combine the chives, parsley, tarragon and lemon zest. Cut down the length of each whole flounder fillet to remove the spine strip. Season the flounder with salt and pepper and lay on a work surface, skinned side down. Spread equal amounts of the herb mixture over the top of each flounder strip. Roll up the flounder strips and secure each one with a toothpick through the center.
In a large, ovenproof, nonstick skillet, heat the oil. Add the flounder rolls seam side down and cook over moderately high heat until browned on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake for 3 to 4 minutes, until just cooked. Transfer 2 rolls, 1 large and 1 small, to each plate. Put the skillet over moderately high heat, add the wine and water and bring to a boil, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Remove from the heat and swirl in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Season with salt and pour the sauce over the fish. Serve right away.
The uncooked flounder rolls can be refrigerated overnight.
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