At Freedman’s in Los Angeles, Best New Chef Liz Johnson does a compelling dance with the deli canon. Her Half-Sour Salad is a shining example of how she reimagines deli classics: In it, a tangle of lightly fermented Kirby cucumbers tangoes with creamy avocado, green goddess dressing, and loads of fresh herbs. This salad uses homemade half-sour pickles, which are easy to make but take time. You can substitute store-bought—look for them in the refrigerated section of the grocery store. The everything-spice furikake is worth making; it’ll be your new go-to condiment.