Habanero Salsa

Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the habaneros and onion in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast for about 30 minutes, stirring once, until the chiles and onion are soft and barely browned in spots. Let cool completely.

Wearing gloves, carefully remove and discard the stems and seeds from the habaneros and transfer the chiles to a blender. Add the onion, orange and lime zests and juices, vinegar, water and oregano and puree until smooth.

In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil. Carefully add the puree and bring to a simmer. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced to 1 3/4 cups, about 30 minutes. Stir in the salt and sugar and let cool completely. Funnel the salsa into glass jars or bottles and chill before serving.