Alex Roberts's father, Don, took up full-time farming in his sixties, after a career as a librarian. He and his partner, Joni Cash, now own a 40-acre property in Otter Creek, Wisconsin, where they grow a huge assortment of organic produce, including the chiles and tomatillos that make the base for this smoky sauce. Alex pairs it with grilled local trout and a tart salad made with his father's cucumbers. "Dad gives me a list of what he's growing at the beginning of every season, and I plan my menus around that," he says. More Healthy Fish Dishes
The chile-tomatillo sauce can be refrigerated overnight. Bring the sauce to room temperature before serving.
Trout, like most freshwater fish, is fairly delicate (even when grilled), so a large-scale wine is apt to overwhelm it. A California rosé is light enough to pair with the trout but has enough ripe fruitiness for the spicy tomatillo sauce.