In Texas, every cook has his or her own closely guarded recipe for the Mexican chocolate-and-chile sauce called mole, invariably making it for the holidays and other special occasions. "I've sampled mole from El Paso to Matamoros," says Louis Lambert. "It has taken me many years and many attempts to perfect my own version." He serves his mole, which has a delicious smoky flavor, with hearty cuts of grilled beef like porterhouse or the grilled strip steaks here. More Steak Recipes
The mole sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat the sauce gently and add the butter just before serving.
Mexican chocolate, a sweet chocolate flavored with cinnamon, is sold at Latin markets and specialty-food stores.
The smoky, fruity ancho chiles here make this dish exceptionally good with red wine, especially a substantial variety such as Zinfandel. In California, Amador County's hot summer days produce rich Zinfandels with a smoky edge.