Grilled Brassicas with Mixed Grains and Bonito Broth

In each of 3 small saucepans, toast the farro, barley and wild rice over moderately high heat, tossing, until they start to smell nutty, 2 minutes. Add water to each pan to cover the grains and rice by 2 inches and bring to a boil. Cover and cook until just tender, 25 minutes for the farro and barley and 35 minutes for the wild rice. Drain and transfer all the grains and rice to a medium saucepan.

Meanwhile, put the kombu in a small saucepan and add 2 cups of water. Cover and simmer over moderate heat for 5 minutes; do not boil. Remove from the heat and discard the kombu. Add the bonito flakes and let steep for 2 minutes, then strain the broth into a small saucepan.

Light a grill. Toss the Broccolini, brussels sprouts and cauliflower with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill on a perforated pan over moderate heat, turning often, until the vegetables are nicely charred and crisp-tender, 5 to 10 minutes.

Add 1/2 cup of the bonito broth, 2 teaspoons of the soy sauce and 1 tablespoon of the butter to the grains and heat, stirring often. Season lightly with salt.

Bring the remaining bonito broth to a boil. Transfer to a blender. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and 1 teaspoon of soy sauce and blend until frothy.

Spoon the grains into four bowls. Top with the grilled brassicas and sprinkle each serving with 2 teaspoons of the lemon juice. Top with the quail eggs and season with salt. Spoon the bonito butter froth over the eggs and grains and serve right away.