Paula Wolfert usually bakes gnocchi in gratins, relieving her of the stress of last-minute cooking. Good, light potato gnocchi can take a really lush sauce such as this one from Emilia-Romagna, which is creamy and fragrant with stewed radicchio, seared pancetta, crunchy pine nuts and a mild Gorgonzola dolce, also called dolcelatte. Slideshow: More Gnocchi Recipes
The sauce can be refrigerated overnight. Reheat gently.
The flavor of this dish is more about the rich, mildly tangy Gorgonzola dolce than the gnocchi themselves, making it ideal for a red wine with zesty acidity. A Sangiovese from San Benito County or Napa is a good option.