Soft Pretzels

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These tender German soft pretzel sticks have a dark golden salt-crusted exterior and chewy centers.

German Soft Pretzel Sticks
Photo: © Lucy Schaeffer
Cook Time:
1 hrs 55 mins
Active Time:
35 mins
Total Time:
2 hrs 10 mins
Yield:
2 dozen pretzel sticks

This German soft pretzel recipe comes from Grant Achatz, of Alinea and Next restaurants in Chicago. These pretzels have a tender chew with a lightly crispy exterior. The yeasted dough gets shaped into pretzel sticks. After a quick rise, the pretzels get a quick blanch in simmering baking soda water to help create the post-bake exterior texture. The egg wash gives the pretzels a bit of sheen but also helps the flaky salt adhere to the pretzel. "I've always been a fan of any food high in salt and starch," Achatz says, "and soft pretzels right out of the oven are awesome."

How to Make Pretzel Sticks

German pretzels were originally boiled in an alkaline solution of lye and water. Lye is a corrosive agent that can be dangerous if not handled correctly. This recipe mimics this technique by blanching the pretzels in baking soda water instead. The alkaline (low pH) solution is what gives the pretzels their dark golden crisp exterior and soft chewy centers. You can eat these slightly sweet, chewy, dark pretzel sticks plain, with mustard or — as Achatz prefers — ranch dressing.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup light brown sugar

  • Water

  • 2 envelopes active dry yeast

  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil

  • 1 tablespoon salt

  • 5 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for kneading

  • Unsalted butter, for greasing

  • 3/4 cup baking soda

  • 1 large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon of water

  • Flaky salt, such as Maldon

  • Yellow mustard, for serving

Directions

  1. In a large bowl, stir the brown sugar into 2 cups of warm water until dissolved. Sprinkle the yeast over the water and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Stir in the vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon salt, and 3 cups flour. Knead in the remaining 2 3/4 cups of flour; the dough will be slightly sticky.

  2. Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and knead until silky, about 3 minutes; if the dough is very sticky, knead in up to 1/4 cup more flour. Transfer the dough to a large, oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.

  3. Preheat the oven to 450°F and transfer the oven rack to the center of the oven. Using softened butter or cooking spray, grease 4 large baking sheets, line them with parchment paper, then grease the paper. Punch down the dough and turn it out onto a floured work surface. Flatten out the dough, and cut it into 24 pieces. Roll each piece into a 9-inch stick about 1/2-inch thick. Transfer the sticks to the prepared cookie sheets, leaving at least 2 inches between them. Let stand uncovered until puffed, about 25 minutes.

  4. Place a rack in a large baking sheet. In a large, high-sided skillet, stir the baking soda into 2 quarts of water and bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderate. Using 2 fish spatulas, carefully transfer 6 pretzel sticks at a time to the simmering water for 30 seconds, turning once. Add about 1 cup of hot water, if needed, after cooking the second batch of pretzels. Transfer the pretzel sticks to a rack-lined baking sheet, to drain, then return them to the cookie sheets, spacing them evenly.

  5. Brush the pretzel sticks with the egg wash and sprinkle with flaky salt. Bake, one sheet at a time, on the center oven rack, until richly browned, about 8 - 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, with mustard.

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