At Bellegarde Bakery in New Orleans, baker Graison Gill is part of a generation of renegade bakers who are eschewing industrially ground white flour in favor of grinding their own flours from crops like red Ruby Lee wheat and heirloom corn. “White flour is a corpse,” says Gill. “It’s a dead, shelf-stable product. Freshly stone-milled flour is a living ingredient, full of flavor, texture, aroma, nutrition, and nuance.” Buy Bellegarde Bakery’s stone-ground flour online at bellegardebakery.com. At Pêche in New Orleans, chef Ryan Prewitt kneads Bellegarde’s flours into a pasta with nutty flavor and a bouncy chew. If you can’t find freshly milled Bellegarde flour, King Arthur makes a durum flour that will work in this recipe.