Fingerling Potato Hash with Mexican Flavors

In a large saucepan fitted with a steamer basket, bring 1 inch of water to a boil. Add the potatoes to the basket, cover and steam until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the potatoes and let cool slightly. Cut the potatoes into bite-size pieces.

Meanwhile, roast the chile over a gas flame or under the broiler, turning it occasionally with tongs, until blackened all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chile to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let stand for a few minutes, until cool. When the chile is cool enough to handle, scrape off the skin and remove the stem, seeds and ribs, then dice.

In a large skillet, preferably cast iron, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderately high heat until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook, turning occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the cumin and coriander and cook for 30 seconds. Add the diced chile, season with salt and pepper and cook until the chile is heated through, about 2 minutes.

Transfer the hash to plates and sprinkle with the cilantro. Serve right away.

For a milder hash, use 1 or 2 red bell peppers in place of the poblano chile. Variation: To make vegetarian tacos, dice the potatoes before sautéing. Fold the finished hash into warm corn tortillas and top with the chipotle sauce and cilantro. One serving:

Set out the hash on a brunch buffet alongside eggs, black beans, chicken sausages and blood orange juice.