Citrus-Cured Salmon with Sake Gelée

In a food processor, process the citrus zests until coarsely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl. In a spice grinder, grind the coriander seeds to a powder and transfer to the bowl. Repeat with the juniper berries, peppercorns and bay leaves. Add the salt and sugar and mix well.

Using a sharp knife, make eight 1/4-inch-deep slits crosswise in the salmon skin. Spread half of the curing mixture in a glass or ceramic baking dish that is slightly larger that the salmon fillet. Set the salmon, skin side down, in the dish. Cover the salmon with the remaining curing mixture, pressing lightly. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 48 hours.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, sprinkle the gelatin over the sake. Let stand until the gelatin dissolves, about 3 minutes. Set the saucepan over moderate heat until the sake is warm and the gelatin melts, about 1 minute. Pour the sake into a small, shallow dish and refrigerate until firm, about 1 1/2 hours.

Wipe the cure off the salmon, rinse and pat dry. Remove the skin, thinly slice the salmon against the grain and transfer to plates. Cut the sake gelée into small cubes and dot them around the salmon. Garnish with celery leaves and serve.