Braised Beef Short Ribs with Six Spices

Preheat the oven to 300°. In a spice grinder, pulse the porcini, peppercorns and salt to a fine powder. Add the coriander, ginger, paprika and cloves and pulse to combine. Rub the spice blend all over the beef short ribs.

Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the short ribs and cook over moderate heat, turning, until lightly browned all over, about 12 minutes; don't let the spices burn.

Scatter the onion, carrot, celery and garlic in a medium roasting pan. Set the short ribs on top, cover tightly with foil and roast for about 2 1/2 hours, until tender.

Meanwhile, pour off the fat in the skillet and return it to high heat. Add the wine, stock and sugar and bring to a boil, scraping up any bits from the bottom of the pan. Simmer over moderately high heat until reduced to 1 cup, about 15 minutes. Transfer the glaze to a heatproof cup.

Preheat the broiler. Transfer the short ribs to a plate and pour the pan juices and vegetables into a bowl. Skim off all of the fat. Transfer the pan juices and vegetables to a blender. Add 1/2 cup of the glaze and puree the pan sauce until very smooth.

Return the short ribs to the roasting pan and brush with 1/4 cup of the glaze. Broil 8 inches from the heat for about 3 minutes, until caramelized and sizzling. Turn the ribs and repeat the process with the remaining 1/4 cup of glaze. Serve the ribs with the pan sauce.

The Wine Hearty meat dishes need a tannic red to cut their richness, but that opens up the field to all kinds of wines. Try a Bandol or a California Rhône blend.