How to Make It
Using a small sharp knife, make 1/2-inch-deep slits all over the brisket. Push a strip of bacon into each slit using the end of a teaspoon.
In a small bowl, combine the garlic, parsley, rosemary and sage; set aside. On a large plate, mix 1/3 cup of the flour with the paprika, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Dredge the brisket in the seasoned flour, then shake off the excess.
In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, melt the butter in the olive oil over moderate heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Raise the heat to moderately high and push the onion to one side. Add the brisket and cook undisturbed until well browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn the brisket over and scatter the herb mixture, bay leaves, carrots and celery around it; cook until well browned on the second side, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer the meat to a platter.
Preheat the oven to 300°. return the casserole to the heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons flour. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add 1 cup of the wine and boil over high heat until reduced by half, stirring occasionally. Stir in the remaining wine and bring to a simmer. Return the brisket to the casserole and season with salt and pepper.
Tightly cover the casserole and braise the meat in the oven until very tender, about 4 hours. Turn the meat every 45 minutes and add a little water to the casserole if the sauce looks very thick or the brisket begins to stick.
Skim the fat from the surface of the sauce and rewarm the brisket. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and slice it across the grain, then return it to the sauce. Continue to reheat gently until hot. Discard the bay leaves before serving.