Bavarian Beer Hall Pork Shanks

In a medium enameled cast-iron casserole, combine the apple cider with the brown sugar, salt, pickling spices and chiles; stir until the sugar and salt dissolve. Add the pork shanks to the pot and rub in the marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight, but no more than 24 hours.

Preheat the oven to 250°. Remove the shanks from the brine and rinse well. Clean and dry the casserole. Melt the lard in the casserole over moderate heat until it reaches 250°. Arrange the shanks in the lard so they are completely submerged. Nestle the garlic in the lard along with the thyme and rosemary. Transfer the casserole to the oven and cook the shanks for 3 hours, or until the meat is very tender. Remove from the oven and let the shanks cool in the lard for about 15 minutes.

Transfer the shanks to a rack set over a baking sheet. Strain the lard through a fine sieve; clean and dry the casserole.

Return the lard to the casserole and heat it to 350°. Fry the pork shanks 2 at a time over high heat until very crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the shanks to paper towels to drain before serving.

Pork shanks are available at some supermarkets and from dartagnan.com.

Sweet and sour red cabbage, or sauerkraut, applesauce and dark mustard.