Bacon, Cheese and Jalapeño Tacos

Roast the jalapeños directly over a gas flame or under a preheated broiler, turning, until charred all over. Let cool. Using a paper towel, rub off the skins and discard the stems. Thinly slice the chiles crosswise, keeping most of the seeds.

Heat a large rimmed cast-iron griddle or a cast-iron skillet. Add the bacon to the griddle and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and the bacon is nearly crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour off all of the fat and wipe the griddle clean.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, toss the Gouda with the asadero and Cotija cheeses.

Warm the tortillas on the griddle over moderate heat, turning once, until pliable, about 1 minute. Transfer the tortillas to a work surface. Fill the tortillas with the bacon, jalapeños and mixed cheeses and fold in half. Griddle the tacos, turning once and pressing gently with a spatula, until browned in spots and the cheese is melted, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the tacos to a platter and serve with salsa verde and sour cream.

Asadero cheese is also known as queso quesadilla. It is a great cheese for melting. Cotija cheese is a white, dry, crumbly cheese. Both cheeses are available at Mexican markets.