Using fish sauce as a marinade for the chicken creates a salty, savory flavor that is surprisingly complex. This recipe is adapted from Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid's third book, Hot Sour Salty Sweet.
Put the fish sauce in a large bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat. Generously season with black pepper and toss again. Let marinate at room temperature for 1 hour or refrigerate for up to 2 hours.
Light a grill. Oil the grate and grill the chicken over a medium-hot fire, turning often, until lightly charred and cooked through, about 15 minutes for the breast pieces and 25 minutes for the legs and thighs. Serve.
A fruity white will balance the saltiness of the chicken. Opt for a West Coast Chenin Blanc.