From October 18 to 24, at Chefs Club by Food & Wine, Gras will do a Dining Room Takeover with his former sous chef Didier Elena. 

Laurent Gras
Credit: Courtesy of Laurent Gras

There is no lack of outstanding chefs in New York City; in fact, you could argue we have the deepest bench of them in the world. In a couple of weeks, one of the true greats is going to step behind the stove at a restaurant and cook for customers for the first time in forever.

That chef is Laurent Gras. David Chang has called him “ounce for ounce, the best chef in the world.” He earned three Michelin stars for Alain Ducasse at Hotel de Paris in Monaco, and he dazzled people with his cooking at the Fifth Floor in San Francisco, where Gras was a 2002 F&W Best New Chef, and at L20 in Chicago. And then, he stepped away from restaurants. Anthony Bourdain, who describes Gras as a chef of “terrifying talent,” compared the no-cooking situation to the time when Mohammed Ali wasn’t fighting in the prime of his career.

Now Gras is back, at least for one week. From October 18 to 24, at Chefs Club by Food & Wine, Gras will do a Dining Room Takeover with his former sous chef Didier Elena. (As is obvious from the name, my employer F&W is a partner in Chefs Club, but I would freak out over a Gras appearance no matter where he was.)

Here are just a few of the dishes on Gras’s à la carte menu:

- Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio, Crushed Salted Plum Relish, Grated Wasabi, Castelfranco Salad
- Whipped Salted Cod, Creamy Purple Potato, Smoked Potato Ribbon, Caviar
- Octopus, Coconut Curd, Sea Bean Salad, Taggiasca Olive Crumb
- Coho Salmon Charred Over Whiskey Barrel, Bee Pollen, Bourbon Sauce, Shishito Pepper, Green Tomato

For reservations for Laurent Gras’s Dining Room Takeover: (212) 941-1100 or

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