Winemakers are a restless lot. If they're not off experimenting with new grape varieties--Nebbiolo, Marsanne or perhaps Petit Verdot--they're traveling the world like vinous missionaries, in search of converts to Chardonnay or Cabernet. Sometimes they even stop along the way to make wine. And occasionally that wine is transformative. One recent example is Altos Las Hormigas, from Mendoza, Argentina. Created with help from six well-known Italian wine consultants, the Malbecs of Las Hormigas are some of the most delicious expressions of that red grape (priced from $9 to $25; 516-677-9300). And Chryseia, from Douro, Portugal, combines the efforts of Symingtons Port and Bordeaux winemaker Bruno Prats (once of famed Cos d'Estournel). Made largely of Touriga Nacional, it is a phenomenally well-polished Bordeaux-style red ($45; 415-401-1700).

--Lettie Teague