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Orange wines are white wines left on their skins during fermentation for months, even years. Says Antonio Gianola of Houston's Catalan, "They drink more like reds because of their weight." A few to try:

2008 Cornelissen Munjebel Bianco 5

"The producer doesn't add sulfur, which makes this wine a wild child," Gianola says about the Sicilian bottling.

2005 Damijan Kaplja Bianco

Fermented in big ceramic amphora, this Friulian white blends varieties like Chardonnay with indigenous grapes.

2007 Paolo Bea Santa Chiara

A blend of five white grape varieties fermented in old oak barrels, it's made by an ultra-sustainable Umbrian producer.

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