When you think of po’ boys—one of New Orleans’s great contributions to the great pantheon of sandwich—odds are you’re imagining a roast beef po’ boy dripping with gravy or a fried oyster po’ boy that makes the most of the Gulf’s fine seafood. But once in awhile, we come across a vegetarian sandwich that ranks right up there with the many fine of meatier specimens. And this sweet potato po’ boy earns that distinction.
Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co in St. Louis, from James Beard Award finalist Kevin Nashan, was inspired by the chef’s time in New Orleans, where he lived and cooked several times over the course of his career. In addition to some classic seafood po’ boys (like the restaurant’s namesake Peacemaker with oysters and remoulade), he’s got a sweet potato version that’s every bit as tasty.
The bread: Classic, crisp-crusted po’ boy bread from local bakery Companion.
The filling: The sweet potatoes are roasted and generously dusted with Cajun seasoning (cayenne, paprika, and garlic), then dressed with garlic aioli, arugula, and an ingenious “sour cabbage”—basically a white kimchi, with white soy, ginger, garlic, cayenne, dehydrated shrimp, and sauerkraut juice. Sweet, sour, and a little funky—everything we love.