Lucky Mussolini: Il Duce spent his last years imprisoned in Villa Feltrinelli in the town of Gargnano on Lombardy's Lake Garda. Now that Robert Burns has made a 13-room hotel of it, with four guesthouses, the 1892 villa has improved immeasurably. Burns helped invent the luxury hotel market (he founded Regent International), and Feltrinelli is his magnum opus. Original frescoes offset modern swank: plasma-screen TVs, marble bathrooms with heated floors, luxurious meals from chef Andrea Travagin and so on. Each room's decor was inspired by a different famous person: Winston Churchill, Isadora Duncan--but look in vain for Mussolini (011-39-0365-79-8000 or