Team Behind San Francisco's Che Fico Opens All-Day, Pie-Centric Concept
The all-day restaurant craze continues with a flurry of buzzy openings across the country, the latest being Theorita in San Francisco. From the team behind Che Fico, one of 2018's most talked-about restaurants, the new counter-style pie shop and dinette opened on Wednesday, August 22, in San Francisco's NOPA neighborhood.
Located underneath Che Fico, the restaurant is "a modern play on the classic American dinette," according to a release, and it's named after James Beard Award-wining pastry chef Angela Pinkerton's grandmother. Theorita—a collaboration between Pinkerton, fellow Eleven Madison Park alum David Nayfeld, and former Hogsalt Hospitality operator Matt Brewer—promises to be "pie-centric," which comes as excellent news, because pies are wonderful and there can never be too many.
In addition to a rotating, seasonal selection of pies, which will be available by the slice, whole, or à la mode in flavors like bourbon walnut chocolate, raspberry and white nectarine, and peach and oatmeal crumble, there will be a menu of daily pastries, retail items, and classic diner fare with modern, overtly San Francisco sensibilities, including fried chicken sandwiches, foie english muffins, banana granola, and, of course, soda floats. While dishes like cobb salad may seem basic, Theorita's versions are anything but—their cobb boasts heirloom organic watercress, Chino Valley Farms hard-boiled egg, and housemade ranch.
The beverage program highlights craft beer, cider, natural wines, low-abv cocktails, and sodas, as well as coffee drinks showcasing local roasters Sightglass Coffee and Ritual Espresso. (Some of the pies, like the sweet potato and coffee cream, have espresso in the crust, offering a sugar/caffeine rush we imagine is quite intense.)
The 55-seat space echoes design tropes of the '50s, with a sepia-toned photograph of Pinkerton’s grandmother on a motorcycle serving as its inspiration.
Theorita, 834 Divisadero Street, San Francisco. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. for breakfast and lunch; 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. for dinner. (Dinner service begins on August 30). 415-917-3160.