The Paris City Guide
It's taken a generation for Les Halles to recover from the razing of its market in the '70s. Now, Paris' historic first-arrondissement zone is starting to come back.
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Eat & Drink in Paris
Courtesy of Konfidentiel
Konfidentiel
Pierre Gagnaire alum Akrame Benallal creates daily-changing four- and six-course meals at this menu-free restaurant, which is set in a limestone cave beneath a hotel. Must try: Foie gras with mushroom hash and herring eggs.
La Régalade Saint-Honoré
The new Right Bank branch of chef Bruno Doucet's superb bistro is a huge hit for its 33 euro market menu. Must try: Grilled Basque pork belly.
Spring
"I love the ancient funk of this part of Paris," says Daniel Rose. Last July, the American chef moved his hit market-driven restaurant here, around the block from his grocery store. Must try: Smoked eel with pickled baby eggplant.
O Chateau
Olivier Magny leads irreverent tastings (in English) at his four-month-old wine bar in the former cellars of King Louis XV.
FoodLab
Avant-garde chef Thierry Marx debuts his first Paris restaurant this summer in the Mandarin Oriental. For now, take a class at his nearby FoodLab.
Shop in Paris
Courtesy of Uah
Uah
"It's very different for Paris," says F&W style editor Jessica Romm of this Japanese concept store (top right). The first floor sells housewares; a market sells dumplings; in the basement is an art gallery. Hot item: Round bento boxes (left).