Riccardo Campinoti moved to the United States from Siena, Italy, a few years ago, and like many expatriates he missed the food and his friends most of all. Opening Terra di Siena in Atlanta, Georgia, and hiring Filippo Saporito as chef, brought him satisfaction on both counts. Saporito was a childhood rugby teammate who happened to be cooking at one of Tuscany's best restaurants, Arnolfo. Since Terra di Siena debuted in January, he's been crafting authentic modern Italian food from the best organic produce Georgia has to offer. (His take on the fashionable Tuscan pairing of shellfish with legumes is sautéed shrimp with a puree of local peas.) Desserts are dreamed up by Ombretta Giovannini, who was also lured away from Arnolfo. Even many objects in the slick, cosmopolitan interior were imported, like the lights and the Philippe Starck­esque chairs, which come from a furniture shop in Siena. As for the very Vegas wine tower--Atlanta's first, we're told--we can only guess that Campinoti has picked up a few of our native customs (654 Peachtree St.; 404-885-7505).

--Pete Wells