In case you feel like you completely missed ramp season, which seemed to me to start slowly and end quickly, now's the time to make up for it. In addition to the green garlic and spring onions that are offered in various youthful states at Greenmarkets this time of year, stalls have started carrying other infant alliums like green shallots and baby yellow and red onions with long, perky greens. This is the time to take advantage of their youth: Simply slice up the bulbs and greens, or chop them, season generously with salt and pepper and sauté them in butter or oil. You can serve them on their own as a vegetable, or tossed with pasta, spread on panini, scrambled with eggs, stirred into risotto or polenta, folded into soufflé and quiche batters, or made into a bed for roasting fish. If the garlic or shallots have long, solid stems that are straight or curled and have a small bulb at the end, these are called scapes. A quick look around the Web tells me that pesto is the most popular vehicle for scapes. I simply cut them into 2-inch lengths, steam them until just tender and toss them with a light vinaigrette--it's fun see if anyone can guess what they are.