Queer As Food
This year marks the 50th anniversary of Pride celebrations commemorating the protest efforts at the Stonewall Inn in New York’s Greenwich Village. Among others, Marsha P. Johnson, a Black gender non-conforming person, refused to be harassed by the police. The patrons of the bar fought back, and the ensuing days of riots were a turning point for the gay rights movement.
Police brutality is the tip of the iceberg in reckoning with the inequalities in this country. As a food-focused person, I feel hyper-aware of the hunger issues that plague the U.S. due to prejudicial food distribution and the misplaced priorities of agricultural policy. There is enough food. We just haven’t done a very good job at getting it to those who need it.
As a cook and a member of the queer community, I’ve been interested in the intersectionality of food and drink with gender and sexuality. This Pride month—in the time of Covid and protests and long-overdue change—I’ve spent time considering the role of food in the queer community. How does it nourish, please, connect, and inspire queer people? What is “Queer Food”? What is “Gay Food”? Is it a cuisine? A feeling? A movement? Where is Queer Food eaten, and by whom?
The idea of Queer Food, I thought, must be as big and varied as the community itself. I was curious about the perspectives of other people, and how their opinions were informed. So, Food & Wine editors reached out to a wide array of queer people in the food and entertainment industries to ask these questions. Here's what they had to say.