Oceana's Chocolate Custard Brownie.As a self-described brownie expert (I think my salted fudge ones are the best), I’m always looking at the competition. In Sam Sifton’s review of the new Oceana in the New York Times this week, he talked about the desserts but for some reason didn’t mention one of my favorites from pastry chef Jansen Chan, the Chocolate Custard Brownie. (In New York magazine, Adam Platt called it a “New Age mille-feuille”). Chan says he has updated the dessert from the one he served at the original Oceana by taking the chocolate cookie crumbs that used to line the plate and instead using them in a warm, creamy sauce. Chan first called this version his 2.0 brownies; he’s since amended that, calling them brownies 7.0 (for the most recent Microsoft operating system) or Snow Leopard (for the Mac people).