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The newest sea salts are full of local color. The Hawaiian salt from chef Ming Tsai's Blue Ginger line gets its pink hue from clay deposits in the soil ($4; Target stores). The snow-white flakes from Stonewall Kitchens are harvested off Bailey's Island in Maine ($10; 800-207-JAMS). Victoria Gourmet's quartet includes pink-and-gray salt from Utah, soft white Anglesey salt from Wales, gray Celtic salt from Brittany and coarse, off-white Trapani salt from Sicily, ground using old stone wheels ($58; 800-403-8981).

—Monica F. Forrestall