Gastronaut Files: Baking Bread
Shortcut Bread: One of America's best bakers tells how anyone can make stunning loaves.
Reading Chad Robertson's gorgeous new cookbook, Tartine Bread, left me with one question: Is there an easier way to make loaves as exceptional as his? At San Francisco's Tartine Bakery, Robertson relies on a levain naturel—a mix of flour and water that's alive with wild yeasts and is commonly known as a starter. But maintaining a starter is a commitment. Indeed, as Robertson recounts in the book, one of his testers actually brought hers on a weeklong trip so she could regularly "feed" it flour and water.
Robertson says there is a simpler way to make bread that's close to his ideal. Instead of a starter, the recipe calls for a pre-ferment—a small portion of flour and water that is mixed with just a pinch of packaged yeast and left to ferment and develop flavor overnight. The baker then mixes it with more flour and water to make dough. The bread, baked in a heavy Dutch oven or lidded skillet, becomes fantastically crusty. Best of all, you don't need a starter sitter when you go on vacation.
Robertson's recipe calls for a cast-iron casserole or a heavy skillet with a lid. A great choice: Lodge Logic Combo Cooker ($35; target.com).
To make a chunky bread, fold in 2 1/2 cups toasted sunflower seeds, 5 cups soaked and drained dried currants or 6 cups walnut halves in Step 3, after folding in the salt water.
Measure ingredients by metric weight using a scale, such as the Oxo digital scale ($50; williams-sonoma.com). Measuring by volume is less accurate.