“Warm red” grass-fed New Zealand wagyu is unlike any other steak.

By Andy Wang
April 24, 2020
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Jerry Greenberg, the L.A. restaurateur behind Sugarfish, Uovo, HiHo Cheeseburger, KazuNori, and Nozawa Bar, has been cooking steak seriously for 20 years. And for about the last two and a half, Greenberg has been doing R&D for a new restaurant that will showcase the grass-fed New Zealand wagyu that he thinks is the best beef in the world.

Greenberg, a veritable beef expert who has traveled across the globe tasting different varieties, became such a big believer in this particular wagyu that he is part-owner of New Zealand’s First Light meat cooperative. And now you can try this beef at home when you join the First Light Steak Club.

The club has just added a “steakhouse” membership with $195 monthly shipments that alternate between three popular cuts: filets, rib eyes, and New York strips. The shipments average just under 4½ pounds, and you’re getting access to proprietary techniques along with the meat. Each membership has a $150 initiation fee that gets you more than $150 worth of equipment, including a cast-iron grill, a stack timer, an infrared thermometer, and a meat thermometer. (There’s also wagyu fat and a brush for putting the fat on the steaks.)

Use the equipment correctly and you’ll be able to cook steak to a remarkable “warm red,” which has the color of rare and the temperature of medium rare.

Credit: First Light Steak Club

“We are looking to achieve the perfect moment where the fat renders, so the center of the steak is as luscious as it can be, but also have the sear on the outside and get what I think is the best way to eat a steak,” Greenberg says.

Members can access an app with specific directions about how hot the grill should be, how long the steak should be cooked on the grill, how long the steak should be finished in the oven, and how long the steak should rest. Follow these directions exactly, and your dinner could be a steak unlike any other you’ve tasted.

The First Light Steak Club also offers a $150-per-month “classic” membership, which averages five pounds of meat per month and gets you cuts like short ribs, picanha, and brisket along with the filets, rib eyes, and New York strips. Another option is a “light” membership with shipments averaging just under 3 pounds a month for $105. Members can also add various cuts on an a la carte basis. You can even buy ground beef if you want to make burgers. First Light, of course, is the beef supplier for Greenberg’s excellent HiHo Cheeseburger.