Christian Etienne, the chef at the restaurant of the same name in Avignon, France, has been called the pope of truffles. Certainly his new truffle butter seems infallible. Each 8-ounce tin ($55) contains exceptional butter from the French dairy L'Isigny Ste. Mère and a healthy dose of minced black truffles. Etienne makes mushroom butter too, with cèpes, in an even bigger dose ($40). Spread on bread, melted over a roast or tossed with pasta, these creamy, flavorful butters are divine (available from Dean & DeLuca; 800-221-7714).

--Monica F. Forrestall