David Chang's New L.A. Restaurant Is Already One of the Hardest Reservations in the City
David Chang opened his new L.A. restaurant, Majordomo, on Tuesday evening, and it’s already one of the hardest reservations in the city. Majordomo sent out an email to its mailing list, announcing that reservations were live, a little before 1:30 p.m. on Tuesday. All the reservations for Majordomo’s first month were filled in the afternoon.
Chang, of course, is in this for the long haul, so L.A. will have plenty of time to visit his restaurant at the edge of Chinatown and try a menu that Chang and his team, including executive chef Jude Parra-Sickels, created specifically for this city.
Chang isn’t serving his Momofuku greatest hits, like ramen and pork buns, in L.A. Instead, Majordomo’s menu features bing breads with toppings like spicy lamb, eggplant and Benton’s reserve ham. Baller bings include one topped with chickpeas and uni, and another with cave-aged butter and osetra caviar. Other menu highlights include peppers stuffed with Benton’s sausage; fried butterball potatoes; a few raw seafood selections; lots of local produce (including a rainbow of vegetables from beloved farmer Kong Thao); noodles and rice cakes; spicy fried skate rice; whole rockfish; and crispy pork belly.
As is the case at many of Chang’s restaurants, the main event is the large-format section of the menu. But again, Chang wanted to do something new in L.A., so Majordomo didn’t open with fried chicken and caviar or a duck feast. Instead, there’s a boneless chuck short rib, spicy bo ssäm and a whole-plate short rib that’s smoked bone-in, “APL-style.” (APL is Adam Perry Lang, the meat master who’s close to opening his first L.A. restaurant in Hollywood.)
Chang’s restaurants always evolve, so you can expect the menu to change here and there. No matter what happens, it’s evident that the chef’s goal is to make something that feels like part of the Momofuku family while also being something brand-new that belongs to L.A.
Chang has spent a lot of time eating all over the city (Korean food and Cassell’s patty melts in Koreatown; dumplings and seafood in the San Gabriel Valley; French dips at Philippe; feasts at restaurants run by his chef friends, including many who were part of the POTLuck fundraiser he recently co-hosted with Roy Choi at Koreatown’s Line hotel). He clearly wants to be part of L.A.’s dining community.
Judging by the rush for reservations on Tuesday, L.A. is excited that he’s finally got his own place here.
Majordomo, 1725 Naud St., Los Angeles 323-545-4880