Chef David Thompson has been studying Thai food for decades; at Nahm, he puts all his knowledge on the plate.

To understand what David Thompson is achieving at Nahm (, you need someone with David’s deep knowledge to explain it... which pretty much means only David. His repertoire of Thai recipes gleaned from old books and women who worked in the Royal Palace is truly remarkable; he has decades of experience cooking Thai food. Farmers grow heirloom strains of herbs just for him, and he sources the best possible ingredients for everything from curry pastes to fish sauce. But let me try to explain the greatness of Nahm by describing the Kaeng Tai Plaa, a traditional dry curry of smoked fish, cockles and prawns. David’s execution is spot-on, the entire dish balanced: first spicy, then fishy, then salty, offset by a sour-sweet pickle on the side. He puts his stamp on this classic with chicken livers, which add minerally richness. It’s a dish worth a pilgrimage.

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