Producers might go out of their way so their wines qualify as “natural,” but F&W’s Lettie Teague still prefers those that qualify as “good.” Here, she picks five terrific bottles that fit both bills.

These wines are organic or biodynamic, or are made by producers who are “practicing” organic or biodynamic— i.e., who use some (not all) of the requisite methods.

2007 Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare ($14)

There may be no vintner more forthcoming than practicing-biodynamic producer Randall Grahm: The back label of his savory, dry, Grenache-dominant rosé lists copper sulfate, oak chips and yeast hulls as ingredients. Fortunately, it tastes better than it reads.

2006 Basa Rueda ($15)

Telmo Rodriguez, a leading practicing-organic winemaker in Spain, creates delicious bargains like this crisp Rueda white.

2005 Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss Kritt Pinot Blanc ($20)

Marc Kreydenweiss, one of the best winemakers in Alsace, uses certified-biodynamic grapes. His Pinot Blanc is full-bodied and dry, with a minerally finish.

2005 Clos Mimi Petite Rousse ($22)

This earthy Paso Robles Syrah with appealing cherry aromas comes from a practicing-biodynamic winemaker, Tim Spear, who says it was fermented while classical music was playing.

2006 Brick House Gamay Noir ($27)

Gamay is the grape used in making Beaujolais; this bright, juicy red from Doug Tunnell, Oregon’s leading certified-organic winemaker, gives Beaujolais lovers a good reason to buy American.