The hawk-eyed folks at Serious Eats brought a most refreshing trend to our attention: In the San Francisco area, restaurants are offering house-carbonated sparkling water. FOR FREE. It makes sense, when you tally up the energy spent collecting, bottling and shipping water from clandestine springs in exotic, faraway lands. And it makes sense that the locavore capitol of the world would embrace this idea first. But I can’t see this movement bubbling up in New York, where the local water is already delicious and restaurants value profits over polar bears. (At lunch today, our waitress responded to a request for tap water with a frown. “Really?” she asked, as if I had ordered my chicken medium-rare.) I’m all for paying for my water if it supports a good cause, but the only sparkling liquid I spring for in restaurants comes from exotic, faraway lands. Like Champagne.