Best Paris Wine Bars: Racines
At Paris’s hottest wine bar, owner Pierre Jancou waits tables, slices charcuterie and pours the wine. The natural-wine evangelist offers bottlings from 15 French producers, including the sherrylike vin de voile from the Arbois in Jura. Jancou opened Racines in a 19th-century shopping arcade after selling his beloved La Crémerie in 2007 (“Saint-Germain was too bourgeois for me,” says the tattooed bistrotier). Behind his zinc-topped oak bar, he makes homespun dishes with Ewen Lemoigne using extraordinary ingredients like heritage chicken in a crème fraîche sauce.